Hidden Secrets of Provence - Dry Stone Barns of La Haute Provence

Now the sun has made its comeback after a long cold and wet winter, it is time for me to get back on the road to bring you some of the hidden secrets and some not so secret but so beautiful that they can't be missed when you come to visit Provence.

Les Bergeries Sèches de La Haute Provence
Dry Stone Barns of La Haute Provence

Dry stone construction is very commonplace across Europe. When man had to build a wall or a hut without cement, he soon figured out the way to master dry stone construction techniques. 

In Provence dry stone construction is everywhere. In Gordes you can see the impressive walls as you drive up to the village, there is of course the Village des Bories, the word "Borie" being the name for a dry stone hut, usually round but sometimes square. 

In La Haute Provence, especially around the villages of Forcalquier and Mane there are "Bories" (which locally they can Cabanons Pointus) scattered around the woods and hills and are often the surprise encounters of an afternoon walk, but as you approach the higher ground of the Montagne de Lure and its surrounding hills then things become serious! 

A "Cabanon Pointu" in the woods just outside the village of Mane en Provence

The construction of dry stone huts was at its high point in the 19th century. Shepherds would build them to keep their stores, tools and even a sick sheep, the huts would keep them dry and warm in the winter and keep them cool and give them protection from the powerful sun in the Summer. The ones around Forcalquier and Mane didn't need to be too big as they were only really used during the day but as you went further from habitations the huts became barns and marvels of dry stone architecture. 

On the area around the Montagne de Lure around 130 of these constructions were built. The main construction was either of several Cabanons alongside each other with an arch way between each instead of a solid wall. They were big enough to shelter the flock, alongside was a smaller one for the shepherd, which had a fire place to cook and keep warm. A wall was constructed with one or two entrances to keep the flock in at night and the predators out.

No mechanical aides, just blood, sweat and tears and immense pride when the job is done! 

The Bergerie de la Gardette near Saumane, Alpes de Haute Provence

The photos shown are of the Bergerie de la Gardette near the village of Saumane, scene of my familly picnic yesterday. In the summer Mr Vinatier, the owner brings his flock of 600 sheep up to graze and the Bergerie relives its past. 

The Bergerie de La Gardette is made up of three cabanons joined together. Here is a shot of the incredible skill required for the ceilings.

To the right the main barn, to the left the shepherds quarters and in the middle the protective wall. 

There many other Bergeries in the area, notably on the Contadour. In association with local hotels and hiking guides we have put together a unique programme with a discovery of the buildings followed by a  candlelit supper in side one of the larger ones. This can be followed by a star gazing session with Slim Hamdani the astrophysician. 

Don't hesitate to contact us for more information.

Photo of the Day - Forcalquier and the Alps...

People tend to associate Provence with the Mediterranean, Lavender fields, Hilltop villages and the Luberon Valley but rarely would one associate the Alps. The Northernmost department of Provence is called Les Alpes de Haute Provence. It is probably the most authentic part of Provence in my mind and abounds in hidden secrets which I take enormous pleasure in revealing to my clients. It's also where I live and every day when I drive home from my office I have the privilege of the view of the Alps bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. The Southern Alps are just next door and even though they are not strictly speaking Provence they fall within its administrative jurisdiction. There are several ski resorts which benefit from the sunshine of Provence whilst often boasting an excellent snow coverage especially towards the end of the season.
Here is a photo taken during an afternoon walk, you can see the Citadel of Forcalquier as well as the unmistakable mountain slopes in the background. The cameras zoom makes the mountains seem even closer than they really are and the effect is quite dramatic. There was no high point to get a clear shot so the tree branches became an inherent part of the image as well.

Forcalquier and the Alps 

The Montagne de Lure - A sunset story

Autumn is one of those times of year when my camera never leaves my side. In the same way spring heralds the year to come with wild flowers, blossoming fruit trees and contrasting skies, autumn is the end, but nature doesn’t just fizzle out to nothing it goes into hibernation with a BANG! Everywhere you look it seems as though the trees are vying with each other, all the hues of red, brown and orange in a spectacular display that bring out the poet it all of us!

The first lines of Ode to Autumn by Keats, that I was forced to learn at school much to my dislike at the time, repeat themselves in mind “Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness!

                                                                    Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun…”

Thank you Mr. English Teacher (I can’t remember his name, but he was my English teacher at UWC in Singapore)

So yesterday afternoon I decided to go for a drive up to the summit of the Montagne de Lure, which is a 20 minute drive from my house. I wanted to photograph the forests on the way up and then see if I could catch the sunset. As I drove I was worried about arriving too late for the sunset so I skipped the forest bit and went straight to the top. I walked the last bit to the ridge which follows the summit, paused and then said WOW like I do every single time I get up there.

The Montagne de Lure viewed from the valley below, St Etienne side.

The Montagne de Lure is 1826 meters high, and is part of the same massif as the Mont Ventoux. Like the Ventoux it is mainly just loose shingle on the top, but being slightly lower, Lure has a bit more vegetation. The drive to the summit starts in St Etienne des Orgues and is 18kms. Halfway up you can stop of at the Chapel of Notre Dame de Lure built in 1166, the only person who lives there now is a hermit who my children call Jack Sparrow as he has his beard done in gray dreadlocks! I will add a photo later… The Montagne de Lure was a stage in the 2009 Paris-Nice cycle race and I was at the summit to witness Alberto Contador win with a time of 34 min 20 s and not a bead of sweat! The race will return to the mountain next year and I will be there again to see the arrival.

Once you approach the summit, you will come to a collection of ugly looking buildings, one is the restaurant/bar where you can have a bite to eat in season, though if you are in a hurry take a picnic lunch with you. In the winter this is as far as you can go if the snow has fallen in sufficient quantities and the two ski lifts are operational, don’t expect huge alpine runs here, but for taking the kids on a Sunday afternoon it’s perfect.

If there is no snow, as was the case yesterday, you can carry on to the top. I like to stop once you come out of the last of the trees in an area marked by a commemorative stone. From here you can walk up to the top and if you have small children, hang on to them, and only release them once you reach the ridge before the vertiginous descent of over 1000 meters down in to the Jabron Valley  on the other side. 

The summit of the Mountain (with a few patches of snow)

When you get here this is where you will say WOW, in fact usually people take a step back and use a slightly more colourful expression as you have before you one of the most spectacular views available in Provence.

The view north from the ridge

The same view with a bit of zoom

View to the west and the familiar silhouette of the Mont Ventoux 

So back to my Lure experience yesterday. As I walked to the top I spotted something moving to my right. Now I have already seen Chamois down the Jabron side, so I supposed that this is what it was and gently walked up to see. There, not more than 50 meters away was a Chamois, munching on the limited vegetation growing between the lumps of rock, it looked up in my direction (I was flat on my belly madly clicking away with my camera) and carried on its evening meal. 

The Chamois looking in my direction...

Later it walked to an outcrop, posed for me, and then, two Mirage Jets very low flying back to their base, close enough for me to smell the burnt kerosene vapours, flew over scaring the hell out of my furry companion.

The Chamois posing

The Noise

So that was my nature moment buggered up…

But now something else was happening, as I walked along the ridge I saw two cars park near mine. The two couples walked up towards the summit, pulled out blankets and laid down facing the sun, and waited.

By this time the light was that wonderful rich golden orange colour that lasts only a short while and usually I don’t have my camera handy, but this time I did, and I got a few nice shots.

Then I too faced the sun, and witnessed a moment that happens every day and no matter how often I see it its magic will never wear off. It has to be said that the sunset on the top of the Montagne de Lure is particularly stunning and in this case I think the pictures do all the talking themselves…  

Going

Going

Gone

The Montagne de Lure is spectacular in all seasons and a perfect place to escape the heat of summer. If you would like to know more or would like to include it in a bespoke itinerary of Provence, contact me using the link on the right.

Photo of the Day - Autumn in Provence

Driving to the office this morning I was taken by the effect of the light on the mists floating above the village of Mane, coupled with the colour of the leaves it made a winning combo! Tell me what you think...

The village of Mane en Provence this morning

Herding Sheep with Henri the Shepherd

When asked to define luxury travel, the easiest answer is 5* hotels, chauffeur driven cars, first class transport etc. But the reality is that although those things may be the general framework for a luxury vacation, the travel experiences on offer are what create the memories.

The reason I have written this preamble is because some may find that the following is anything but luxury, but if the experience is unique, unforgettable (in a positive way), and the encounters are rich then I think that it is a luxury to meet a man like Henri the shepherd and his 600 sheep in the foothills of the Montagne de Lure in the heart of La Haute Provence!

Henri the Shepherd

I first met Henri in the bistro in my village, he was introduced to me by another villager, Jean-Philippe, one of the many locals who are on the lookout for me, tracking down interesting encounters and visits.  

Sheep farming is an integral part of life in La Haute Provence and during my years flying hot air balloons I met nearly all the sheep farmers in the Pays de Forcalquier, and became friends with many. At the end of spring the flocks of sheep are transported to the mountain pastures mainly towards the Italian border and also up on the Montagne de Lure and other smaller local areas, this age old activity called La Transhumance was originally undertaken on foot, but now due to the modern world we live in the animals are mostly transported by truck to the bottom of their pastures and the only the last part is on foot. Some do the Transhumance locally taking their flocks to areas which can be reached entirely on foot, others stay in the region with the sheep being taken to different areas every day by their shepherd and his trusty dog Iskra (meaning Spark in Polish). 

The very tame Goat

Another particularity of the flocks here are the presence of a goat or two who apparently help the sheep stay together as the goat follows the shepherd better than the sheep, and the other member of the local flocks is the Patou  or Pyrenean Mountain Dog. 

The not very vicious Patou with my son Louis

 He is there to guard the flocks from wolves who are making quite a comeback on the Italian border, but have also been spotted more locally, usually it is recommended not to approach a flock of sheep, especially in the mountains because the Patou will protect at all costs, so last week when I went to see Henri, the first to greet me was the Patou and I stayed in my car with my 8 year old son. Henri ambled over and shouted over to me “T’en fait pas, il est bon à rien ce con!”  which translates as “Don’t worry he’s a useless S.O.B.”  and he was! 

He name was Costaud, which translates as Strong or Sturdy and was the friendliest Patou I had ever met, and according to Henri, if a wolf ever attacked the flock, he could help himself as the Costaud was usually off elsewhere and rarely doing his job, but he was a nice dog and as Henri said, it’s better to have a friendly Patou who provides a bit of company than one that will rip the arm of anyone who has the misfortune to get too close.

Breakfast of Champions

Our morning started with a typical breakfast of champions French style. Paté, dried ham, saucisson, local goat’s cheese and fresh baguette, all washed down with a glass or two of red wine. During our breakfast the goat was repeatedly demanding to be petted, which was a delicate operation considering her horns, and Costaud sat on my feet. Iskra sat near Henri glancing up to his master waiting…

Henri then opened the pen where the sheep had spent the night and casually said to his remarkable sheepdog Iskra, “Bring them on and keep them right” I was use to very specific commands being given to sheepdogs, but this was the first time I had ever witnessed a casual conversation between man and dog with results!  

The sheep poured out of the pen and were led to the right by the dog and we began our walk.

Sheep on the move

Up the track into the Woods

Each day the sheep are led through the hills and woods where they move like a very coordinated eating machine, when no one is talking all you can hear is munching. Munching of grass, munching of oak leaves and the occasional Baaaa. Once an area is cleared of all living vegetation, Henri would look over to his Iskra and give him a command and the dog would perform the required task without hesitating and move the flock to the next area.  

Delicious Oak Leaves

Meanwhile the Costaud would move to the next shady spot and collapse as if he had actually been doing something, this display of total laziness was commented by Henri but the Patou didn’t seem to care. At one point Henri showed me something else that I never knew existed, a gang of rogue sheep, a group of 5 or 6 who would split from the flock and have to be watched carefully with the sheepdog having to make a separate foray to keep them grouped with the others. Walking through the woods and plains of La Haute Provence is fascinating with several different varieties of Lavender growing wild (see In the Footsteps of The Lavender Pickers) along with Thyme and Sarriette, a herb often seen as decoration on local goat’s cheeses. All these are pointed out by Henri who, although not a botanist, needs to know the different plants as some are not good for his sheep.

In the Woods

Our walk continued through the woods with stunning views over the local lavender filled valleys when we reached clearings. Henri told me about himself and how he came to be a shepherd. His previous job was that of a disk jockey! “Good fun when you’re young” he said, “…but I like to be alone, and the life of a shepherd seemed to fit the bill”   he went on to explain that his family thought he had gone mad when he spent 5 months on a mountainside with 1500 sheep and two dogs for company, sleeping on a straw mattress and having the occasional visitor (often hikers caught in a storm) with whom he could share a meal. But one day members of his family came to visit and he said that they understood at once, “I didn’t need to explain anything “he said “ the mountains did the talking for me” . Ever since Henri is the pride of his family, having chosen a life that keeps him close to nature, and I think he looks like a shepherd not a DJ!

Always on the Move

Our walk lasted two hours, before the sun gets too hot, and the sheep don’t want to eat anymore, but would rather rest in the shade before the evening meal once the sun has lost its power. On our return Henri hooked a few sheep with his shepherds crook. The ones he grabbed were marked with a purple spot on their backs for easy identification, and were in need of treatment, mostly cuts received during the roaming in the woods. The remedies used were lavender essential oil which is a known wound healing product as well as disinfectant, and a sort of tar was used to cover other wounds. Only 4 sheep were in need of treatment, but throughout the day Henri’s eyes were always inspecting the animals as they fed.

A welcome drink at the Sheep bar

Once the treatments were administered, and the sheep had all drank their fill of water, Costaud installed himself in amongst the flock, ready for any trouble from wolves or any other preying beast, as is expected from the guardian, and as we turned our backs to go home he hopped out discretely to go for a rummage in the nearby wood.

 

Useless dog…

If the idea of meeting a man like Henri or experiencing the way of life and making unique encounters in La Haute Provence interests you, then contact us using the link on the right.

Absinthe: The Rebirth of the Green Fairy

If you believe the reputation given to Absinthe at the turn of the 19^th and 20^th centuries, it is better to stop reading this right now. The equivalent of this terrible alcoholic drink today would be Class A drugs. But that is IF you believe its past reputation.

"Alcohol, Here is the Enemy!" Poster by artist and missionary
 Frédéric Christol in 1910  

Absinthe was banned in 1915 due to its many dangerous properties, notably the causing of epilepsy, tuberculosis, fits of murderous rage and just plain insanity. All of these were clearly documented and verified by notable doctors and scientists of the time, who with hindsight were probably absinthe drinkers themselves!

Amongst the most famous Absinthe drinkers in France we can find  Toulouse-Lautrec, Beaudelaire, Rimbaud, Verlaine and of course Vincent Van Gogh who though not officially French is artistically associated, and a self-declared  madman, clearly due to the Green Fairy as absinthe was known.  Other famous absinthe drinkers include Ernest Hemingway and his reckless, risk taking life style and Oscar Wilde whose loose morals and dangerous wit were obviously linked to the consumption of this appalling drink.

The alternative to absinthe after its ban was pastis another anise flavoured drink, which quickly gained in popularity especially in the South East of France. It too was banned in 1940 along with all alcohols over 17° but in 1944 was authorised again.

Still life with Absinthe by Vincent Van Gogh

Absinthe however was to wait a long time before being rehabilitated and it was officially allowed to return to the cocktail hall of fame in April 2011, requiring nearly 100 years to clear its name. So you can now rest assured that fits of rage, insanity and tuberculosis will not be unfortunate after effects, though if you drink too much the first two have been known to happen, as it will with all alcohols it turns out.

The Green Fairy working her evil spell!
The Absinthe Drinker by Victor Oliva (1861-1928)

Absinthe can be made in several different ways; by maceration of the herbs in a neutral alcohol, by using the essences of the herbs, a bit like mixing a cocktail or by maceration followed by distillation which is the superior method favoured by most Absinthe manufacturers. The main herbs used are Grande Wormwood (Grande Absinthe in French hence the name), Anise and Fennel. To these three essential ingredients are added petite wormwood, hyssop, angelica, lemon balm, star anise, sweet flag, dittany, coriander, juniper, and nutmeg in varying quantities according to the particular recipe. Not all are necessarily used. The resulting drink is a very strong (around 70° alcohol) but beautifully smooth, lemony, anise combination with the pleasant background bitterness of the Wormwood which gives it its unique identity. It can be drunk neat on a bed of crushed ice, or as a long drink with iced water. For the true aficionados you must take a lump of sugar which you place on a specially made Absinthe spoon, this is placed on the top of your glass already containing a dose of Absinthe, the water is then poured over until the sugar dissolves. Each method gives a different result, so I recommend trying them all!

An Absinthe fountain with the spoons and sugar lumps in place
(photo Distilleries et Domaines de Provence)

Yesterday I joined the old boys of Forcalquier for a distillation of Absinthe using the most remarkable Alembic Still you will ever see. The atmosphere is festive and patés, cheese and red wine are all presented on a table for all to share, which if like me you haven’t even had a coffee to start your day, is tough to begin with but you soon get into the swing of things.

The seemingly innocuous shed where it all happens,
given away only by the tell tale chimney! 

The Alembic hidden inside the shed 

Janot

(Photo courtesy of the Distilleries et Domaines de Provence)

The master of ceremonies was Janot whose age is as great as his skill and his passion is readily shared with anyone that asks. His acolyte is Pâquerette and he was also aided by Yves. If anything went wrong, like the fire to heat the water dying down or no one noticing the end of the distillation the blame was automatically laid on Yves being the youngest, although it was not necessarily his fault. The accusations were loud and met with general hilarity from the others gathered around, who were used to this offloading of responsibility. Needless to say the old boys were always keeping their eyes on everything and the final product was perfect as always.

Janot keeping an eye on the proceedings

Inside the Alembic,
the macerated mix is heated by the copper tubes full of super heated steam.

This particular distillation was for the Distilleries et Domaines de Provence who also make the famous Pastis Bardouin, and a whole range of aperitifs using peaches, walnuts, oranges…  Liqueurs using Thyme and Génepi and La Douce which is a combination of Cognac and pear liqueur and is easy to drink …too easy! They are the proprietors of the alembic and most of their alcohols are created using the same “savoir faire” of the old boys of Forcalquier, which once you have met them and experienced a distillation gives you a renewed respect each time you sip your Absinthe or Pastis.

Janot and Pâquerette emptying the Alembic of the macerated herbs before starting a new batch.

The final nectar flowing out.

The Distillers of Forcalquier.
Alain Gaubert (aka Pâquerette), Yves Rafattelli and Janot Augier
(Magnificent photo courtesy of the Distilleries et Domaines de Provence)

This had to be on my list of unique travel experiences, even if there are only a few distillations a year, usually starting around August and going on into October. It is a privileged insight into a time old tradition which will one day disappear in its present form to be replaced by something more modern, probably more efficient and definitely less picturesque, authentic and friendly.

The bottled result by the Distilleries et Domaines de Provence

If you would like to discover Absinthe, then I highly recommend the Distilleries et Domaines de Provence, you can visit their website here.

www.distilleries-provence.com

If you would like to discover the alembic, or join us on one of our unique travel experiences then you can contact me here.

Unique Provence Contact