Lavender Endowment Fund Website

The Lavender Endowment Fund website is up and running in English. The translation was done by me and so if you spot any glaring errors don't hesitate to post a message.
The website can be viewed here : http://www.sauvegarde-lavandes-provence.org/en/

Healthy Lavender and photo bombing bee taken near Sault last summer

The Decline of Lavender page was taken directly from my blog post article Provence Lavender Under Threat as the members of the board decided it explained the issue clearly.

Please spread the word as Provence lavender needs help, the situation is not disastrous but it is not good either, and money is needed for research.

For every lavender day tour offered by Unique Provence we will donate 50€ to the fund and every small group tour, 100€ per person, but you can donate by using the paypal link on the endowment fund website.

Provence Lavender Under Threat

Despite the seemingly endless rows of lavender on display at the height of summer in Provence all is not well in the world of lavender production.

Healthy Lavender growing near Sault, Provence

The cause of the trouble is a miniscule little insect related to the cicada who goes by the name of Hyalesthes obsoletus although there is nothing oblsolete about it. 

Hyalesthes obsoletus © Michael F. Schönitzer

The insect, a sap sucking leaf hopper, has a particular fondness for the taste of lavender upon which it lays its eggs. The insect and its larvae eat the sap of the plant which in itself would cause no problems, if eating a bit of sap was all they did, but unfortunately they are also the carriers of a phytoplasma, a bacterium devoid of cell walls and therefor dependant on a host, in this case the sap of the lavender plant. The insect is referred to as a vector, who much like a mosquito, drinks the sap from the plants and in doing so becomes infected and so propagates the phytoplasma to other plants. The phytoplasma in question here is the Stolbur Phytoplasma which also affects potatoes, tomatoes, maize and vines. Once the phytoplasma is in the plant it inhibits growth and eventually the plant becomes too weak to be productive or dies.

So there, in short, you have the problem and the scale is huge. A noted rise in temperatures has also caused the proliferation of the insect and at this moment in time no effective solution has been found to eradicate it.

Lavendin Plants affected by the Phytoplasma © CRIEPPAM

Lavender Plants affected by the Phytoplasma © CRIEPPAM

The possible methods to tackle the problem are the following:

•          Antibiotic treatment which would attack the bacteria directly, but their use on plants is forbidden in France to avoid the development of mutation and resistance which would only increase the problem.
• 
  
•        Chemical treatment in the form of pesticides would be almost impossible due to the fact that the larvae live under ground and the adults are present during the flowering season at the same time as honey bees. Also the use of pesticides is, from an ecological point of view, not possible even if it did work.

So attacking the phytoplasma or the insect is impossible. All that remains are ways to discourage the insect from laying its eggs on the lavender and the development of resistant strains of lavender who remain unaffected by the phytoplasma.

So far several varieties have been produced which are tolerant to the attacks but none are totally immune. The replacement of affected plants by these is taking place but it is not an end  to the problem. Other experiments which use fine white clay sprayed on to the plants. This seems to discourage the insect who finds the white aspect unappealing.

Research is continuing all the time and research costs money, hence the creation of the foundation to save the lavender of Provence.

I myself am a member of the board and the only representative of the tourism industry. The president is Olivier Baussan the founder of L’Occitane en Provence. The other members are mostly lavender producers.

Through donations the foundation can continue its research into this major problem and as you can see is coming up with answers, but the solution to the problem is not in sight.

Kairos Travel has decided that as of 2014 every for small group lavender tour 100€ per guest would be donated to the Lavender Foundation, and for every lavender day tour or excursion 50€ would be donated. The donations can continue on of course and you can make a donation however big or small, by following this link: http://www.sauvegarde-lavandes-provence.org/souscription-don-fonds-dotation 

The Foundation’s website is only in French for the moment, but the English version is being worked upon and should be online soon.

If you would like to learn more about lavender whilst in Provence (as well as relaxing in th L'Occitane Spa, cooking classes and much much more!) then join us on our "Provence The Lavender Season Tour" information can be found here : http://www.unique-provence.com/provence-luxury-guided-tours/provence-the-lavender-season

or alternatively you could opt for a day tour during the Lavender Season :  http://www.unique-provence.com/guided-tours-of-provence/lavender-day-tour

Lavender Season 2013 - Plateau d'Albion

This year the season got off to a bad start. It rained. And rained. And rained. And then it rained a bit more. At my home we turned off the heating at the start of May!
Provence was not a sunny paradise.
Then the sun did come out and dried the ground and thanks to all the rain Provence turned into a lush, green paradise. The poppy fields that normally appear at the end of May and run into June were two weeks late. The cherry harvest, normally over by now, is still ongoing.

Poppies in early June 2013 

And the lavender is running at least ten days behind schedule maybe more and that is not so great for the lavender producers but for the tourists who want to admire Provence's blue gold it is fantastic, there should be lavender fields in flower to the end of July.

Today I went for a drive up onto the Plateau d'Albion where you can find fields of true lavender. To make things simple there are two main types of lavender grown in Provence:

1. True Lavender. This is used in cosmetic production, perfume industry and aromatherapy. Its yield of essential oil is about 15kg per hectare (2.5 acres). Lavande Fine or True Lavender grows above 800m in order to obtain the AOP (designate origin label). The colours can vary within the same field from plant to plant as each one is genetically unique. 
2. Lavandin. Used for industrial purposes mainly, soaps, washing powders, interior fragrances etc. One hectare of lavandin produces 100kg of essential oil! Lavandin is a natural hybrid from True lavender and  Aspic Lavender. It has a higher level of camphor (8% as opposed to 1% for True Lavender) which makes it unsuitable for using on skin or in aromatherapy.

So now you know what is what when it comes to lavender, here are the photos that I took today. 

Enjoy!

The village of Aurel , near Sault. In another two years when the lavender is big this will be THE photo op... 

Close up shot of true lavender in bloom complete with the photo bomber bee

True lavender in the foreground and Lavandin behind. Note how green the trees and fields are in the background.

Field of Lavandin 

A typical dry stone hut (Borie) in a young lavender field

A luscious field of True Lavender 

Spot the difference! Lavandin and True Lavender.

If you would like to visit the lavender fields of Provence I will personally be guiding private tours this coming month. Contact me using the link on the right.

Also take a look at my other lavender posts from last year :

In the Footsteps of the Lavender pickers. A bit of history, and how to distil lavender.

New Lavender Photos. Also with some information on the threat that lavender is facing. 

...and several photo posts as well. 

Summer in Provence 2013

A Few Pictures of Summer in Provence...

I'm afraid I haven't had an awful lot of time to post new articles. The subject matter is there, but our services for made to measure travel in Provence have become rather sought after. 

But I always have my camera with me when I am on the move so here are a few pictures taken over the last couple of weeks so you can see what I have been up to and which may well explain why Provence is so very popular.

14th June, Marseille, the MuCem with Notre Dame de La Major behind, or, When Old meets New

Marseille is the big subject this year, you can see my post Marseille 2013 - Getting Ready to see why. As European Capital of the year the city has indeed undergone a transformation and I can recommend a stroll arround the Old Port past the Fort St Jean and to the J 4 the name given to the area where the MuCem (Museum of Civilizations From Europe and the Mediterranean) is to be found. There is a man with a trolley who sells cold drinks and peanuts salted (a lot) by him. Everything is a Euro or at least was when I last saw him! 

21st June, The Papal Palace of Avignon

When in Provence there are certain monuments and sights that cannot be missed, despite the crowds and the Papal Palace of Avignon is one. It's a bit like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. A very good audioguide is available in most languages so you can visit at you own rhythm. 

27th June The Abbey of Sénanque near Gordes

Another site difficult to avoid is the 12th Century Abbey of Senanque near Gordes. Here the visits are guided and in French. However many come to see the Abbey from the outside and the lavender fields that grow there. The produce from these fields can be purchased in the Abbey shop.

28th June, Market in Lourmarin

The Provençal market! need I say more. Why markets seem more colourful in Provence than elsewhere in France I don't know. I'm not convinced that they do really... The Lourmarin market is great and is on every Friday.

28th June, Opening of the new Pitch and Put at Niozelles

 Here is a new project that is already gaining in popularity. If the idea of 18 holes on some of the regions most prestigious courses appeals then give me a call! But if you would like to spend an afternoon on a 9 hole Pitch and Put course set in a very pretty valley then come to Niozelles near Forcalquier. Warning! Most of the buildings are still being finished so it looks like a bit of a building site when you arrive but don't let that put you off, the course is fantastic.

3rd July, A Lavender field in Marseille

Ok, in the photo it could be anywhere, but I couldn't resist this close up of a very happy sparrow finding his lunch in the 4000 lavender plants on the port of Marseille.

3rd July, Soggy watches in Marseille...must be Dali

As I said earlier in this post, Marseille is the place to be this year! At the moment a series of slulptures based on Salvador Dali's work can be found all over the Old Port. 

5th July, Lavender field at Saint Martin de Castillon 

 Driving home I thought I would take a peek at the state of the lavender in the Luberon valley. I particularly liked the view in this photo taken close to the village of St Martin de Castillon on the noth side of the valley. Opposite is the Luberon mountain and the village of Castellet.

Ballooning in Provence, at the landing...

Last Saturday I piloted the small L'Occitane en Provence balloon for a film. I particularly enjoyed the flight, the weather was perfect, and the wind carried us on one of the best routes in the region for balloons. The closer balloon is the one that I talk about in  my last post Hot Air Ballooning in Provence

So there you have it my ramblings for the last few weeks, I will try and sit down and get something a bit more topical on paper as soon as possible.

Hot Air Ballooning in Provence

I never thought I would ever write an article on Hot Air Ballooning in Provence! Don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't like it, au contraire, I have been flying hot air balloons commercially in France since 1991 and I continue to do so on an occasional basis as it is in my blood!

However there is one thing that I do not enjoy, or at least I had convinced myself something to that effect, and that is being a passenger. This is why I have only ever been in the passenger seat two or three times in the last 22 years and that is why I could never write an article on the joys of a Hot Air Balloon ride in Provence, because my perspective is that of a pilot. 

Last week all that changed...

The shadow of our hot air balloon over the thyme and lavender growing wild in the Garrigue near Mane en Provence

I had booked places for a balloon ride in Provence as I was receiving a journalist and there is no better way to admire the region than on a hot air balloon ride and of course this meant that I would have to  fly as well. 

I met the balloon team at 06:15AM and remembered another reason why I had stopped ballooning full time! The balloon we were flying in was the biggest of France Montgolfières balloon fleet and the latest of the L'Occitane en Provence hot air balloons. 

Inside the L'Occitane en Provence Hot Air Balloon

The pilot was Max Duncomb who I have known for a long time (we both worked as ground crew for Buddy Bombard's balloon adventures in 1990) so I knew I was in good hands. 

Our pilot Max concentrating on his task. 

Max has a vast experience and has flown all over the world, but watching him prepare the balloon, inspect it and inflate it as a mere onlooker just seemed a bit strange, but very soon a bizarre transformation occurred and I became a passenger, I listened to the pre flight safety briefing instead of purposely chatting to the crew just to show that I knew it all. I felt strangely excited as the huge balloon left the ground and slowly took the skies, even though I had done so as a pilot well over a thousand times. I marvelled at the Alps, silhouetted in the distance, photographed the Mont Ventoux and the Montagne de Lure for the umpteenth time. I even think I went "wow" as Max demonstrated  his skill as he played in the gardens of the Prieuré de Salagon, barely brushing the treetops. I waved to onlookers and I nearly clapped at the perfectly smooth landing (some claim that I did, but that is pushing it a bit!).

A few photos from my Provence Hot Air Balloon Flight

I really enjoyed it, and will do it again, as a passenger but only if I am sure of the experience of the person flying the balloon, which is a no brainer! Luckily France Montgolfières has the strictest rules for pilot selection in the country, every pilot has experience outside of France stretching across the five continents. The in house training is rigorous and the company has been around and has an unblemished record for over 25 years which in itself is almost enough. Of course I have worked for them for many years and so my appreciation could be considered biased by some. It is not. However I do work with other balloon companies in Provence whom I have flown with and can vouch for personally. Their links are at the bottom of this post. 

Hot Air Ballooning in Provence is magical, the weather is more often than not perfect (OK this Spring has been wet windy and generally awful, but it is very green!) and you really can see the Alps and the Mediterranean from the basket on a clear day. Flights are only programmed in the mornings so be ready for a ridiculously early wake up call, but it is worth every minute!

When I was flying I used to get asked questions on the best times of the year to fly etc. and my answers would be fairly vague as we needed passengers all year round, so I would sell the merits of all the seasons, never putting one ahead of another. But there are a few moments in the year not to be missed, and these are mine in order of preference. 

1. The end of Spring/ beginning of Summer. (end of May and beginning of June... ie. Now)  After the spring showers (this year it's downpours) the nature in Provence comes to life like nowhere else. Wild orchids, flowering thyme, the bright green fresh leaves on the local stumpy oaks, little lambs gambolling in the fields (they go great with the wild thyme!), the last snow on the Alps and because the temperatures are not at their maximum there is less haze and the visibility is often very good. 
2. Mid-Autumn. Haute Provence, indeed Provence in general,  is a very wooded area, and the trees are mostly deciduous. The colours of Autumn are stunning and the other added advantage is that the sun rises later so the morning wake up call is a bit more civilised! To see what I mean about the colours see this post : Autumn Colours of the Luberon
3. The Lavender season. First of all let me issue a warning. Since Hot Air Balloons cannot be steered, there is no guarantee that you will fly over a Lavender field. But to tell you the truth it doesn't really matter. The pilot will always try to choose a take off spot which will allow you to fly over the fields but as you climb up into the sky you don't look down, you look around you, and there you will see the purple fields making up the patchwork of Provence. Once you have flown and have been able to appreciate the importance of the lavender harvest, then I recommend you get in your car (or book a tour with me!) and discover the lavender close up. Ballooning allows you to see things from a different point of view, and to approach things from a safe distance (like lions in the Masai Mara). But when it comes to a crop like lavender in Provence, or vines in Burgundy you get an overall vision of the beauty of the region before discovering it by yourself  on the ground, which is not as easy with the lions in the Masai Mara!
4. The rest of the year! Yes, although the highlights of the season are listed above ballooning in Provence is always a magical moment and is a "must do" when you next visit.

Here are a few photos of ballooning in Provence that I have taken over the years and at the end some useful links for your next hot air balloon ride in Provence. Click on the photos to enlarge them.

The Forcalquier Balloon alarming the pigeons as it flies past the citadelle of the town.

View of Banon in summer with the Lavender in Flower

Ballooning over lavender fields at La Rochegiron near Banon

Fields of Lavender and also Clary sage (the light pink ones)

Balloon with Banon and the Mont Ventoux

Flight at the start of the season with the Alps in the background and the Montagne de Lure in the foreground still with their snowy winter coats on. 

Here is a video made for France 3 TV channel in 2007 with me flying during the Lavender season. Also it features a fantastic initiative to use draw horses and carts as chase vehicles. 

A few words for those that are scared.

On the 10th July 1987 I was more or less forced into getting into a balloon (I was a ground crew) as they needed some weight. I am scared of heights, terrified in fact so I closed my eyes for the first 10 minutes, then I looked at my feet and finally I looked out. No vertigo, no panicking it was amazing. Since that that day I have been able to convince many "scared" people to fly and they have all been so thankful. The reason you do not, indeed cannot suffer from vertigo in a hot air balloon is that you are not in contact with the ground. Trust me, I can't look down a stairwell without feeling dizzy and yet am perfectly comfortable in a hot air balloon basket (or aeroplane or any flying machine for that matter) Remember we are talking about vertigo here, i.e. the fear of heights. Since I have been flying I have welcomed more than 10 000 passengers into my balloons and have never had to land because someone was too scared. I have had nervous passengers, plenty, if they were none it would be bizarre. So if you love the photos in this post but you hesitate because of your fear of heights, don't. Make sure the pilot knows and he or she will help you, reassure you and you will not regret it, believe me!

Unique Provence can create a personalised balloon experience for you in your own private basket with our ballooning partners, including hotel reservations and transfers. For more information contact us using the link on the right.

If you want to go for a hot air balloon ride in Provence (and elsewhere in France) then I recommend you contact France Montgolfières who I have worked for and with over the last 25 years, on busy days you may even get me flying you!. 

Also in Provence you can contact Vol Terre and Aeronefs et Aerostats de Provence both run by personal friends and very competent pilots.  

A Walk in Haute Provence & The First Signs of Spring

The Wild Almond trees are getting ready to blossom with the first flowers making an appearance despite the continued threat of frost.

For the last few weeks it has been cold, very cold which is normal, it's winter. We've had plenty of snow and temperatures well below freezing and although winter is very pretty, I would be happy if it lasted about a week and then moved into my favourite season Spring.   In 1943 the geographer André Siegfried said that Provence "was a cold country with a hot sun" and it is true that even when it is -10° C outside in the morning I turn off the heating in the house knowing that the sun will take over. It's a delight to be outside in the Provençal sunshine lounging like a lizard but add a bit of mistral to all of that (and winter is the season of the mistral wind) and suddenly the cold air slices through your clothes and freezes you from the inside out and the sun's only function is to remind you that it is daytime!
But today (2nd of March) the wind switched to the South and the temperatures went from -5°C in the morning to +16°C. This happens every year, one day it's winter and the next it's spring. (which also means that in the next few days the heavens will open and it will rain and rain).
So today I went for a nice long walk armed with my camera, and this is what I saw...

The Last traces of winter (I hope!) 

The wild lavender that grows in and around the old village of Ongles is abundant and even in this winter state still has a strong scent when you rub it in your hand.

A Walk in the Ruins of Ongles

My walk took me to the ruined village of Ongles in Haute Provence where the ancient streets and walls remain with the ruined church overlooking from the top of the hill. I have not been able to find any plans of what the original village looked like and it is always an interesting exercise to try and figure out where the houses were in relation to each other. The village was abandoned in the 17th century when being perched on a hill to see the next attack from your neighbouring lord's serfs became an obsolete activity, but the church was used up until the early 20th century albeit in its ruined state. Most of the village was pulled down to rebuild the new one at the bottom of the hill and as such the old village became a stone quarry for the new one. In my kitchen I have stone slabs on the floor which may have originated from the old church, stone sinks that definitely came from up the hill and if you know where to look in the village you can find evidence of stonework that was not originally intended for its present location.

One of the remaining stone walls that despite having been mostly torn down, still stands perfectly straight as a witness to the medieval stone mason's skill.

Alcoves in the wall are great places for games of hide and seek with my children

One of the narrow alleyways that run through the ruins

A window in the church outside looking out to the blue, blue Provence sky

The Story of Provence Olive Trees

Apart from the ever present pine forests in Provence which are like tinder in the summer, the other evergreen tree that epitomises the South of France and indeed the entire Mediterranean basin is the olive tree. In amongst the ruins of the village of Ongles the olive trees are still there hundreds of years on. Recently some of them have been pruned back for the production of olives once again for oil. In 1956 after a particularly balmy autumn and a mild start to the winter, during the month of February when the farmers were working in shirtsleeves, the cold arrived with a bang and the temperatures went from +10 to -20 overnight. The olive trees which can withstand the -20 conditions normally didn't this time because the sap in their branches was full due to the warm conditions and with the sudden change they were helpless and froze and a large percentage of the Provence olive trees disappeared overnight.
But olive trees never die.
Many years later from the seemingly dead stumps, new branches emerged and the trees came back to life! Unfortunately in the more rural areas in the Haute Provence olive oil production had been forgotten by many and the trees grew in a semi-wild state, but bit by bit they were cleared and have now been returned to their former glory in many cases producing award winning olive oils. Olivier Baussan, the founder of L'Occitane en Provence has created a museum on olive oil history and a has sourced the best olive oils in Provence which you can buy in his shops around France and soon probably around the world. Come and try them in Provence next time you are here. www.ppp-olive.com and have a delicious meal here whilst you're at it!
Olive trees are fascinating and I tend to photograph them from every angle. Here are a few shots taken on my walk of the survivors of the old village of Ongles.

One of the Ongle's old village Olive Trees, note the size of the tree's stump.

Some didn't survive, but this one was for its wood, what remains is still a beautiful object.

More of the olive grove, the pile of stones was probably a dry stone hut used for storing tools and getting away from the afternoon sun.

A close up of the evergreen leaves of the olive tree.

Looking out from the olive grove you can see more olive trees below and also spot any approaching marauders in the distance. Today there where none.  

Olive trees are beautiful from a distance as well as close up and their hard wood is prized for the making of salad bowls, spoons etc. 

Soon the warmth of the Provençal sun will turn the brown grass and plants and leafless trees into a riot of colour, but for the moment the rain is pouring down which is a good thing for the coming season. But Provence certainly doesn't lose its unique charm even in the winter because the sun often shines and the smells of the wild thyme and lavender never go away.

Having said that...bring on Summer!!!

See our related Blog posts :

Discover the ancient village of Ongles and  pick wild lavender on the L'Occitane en Provence  Lavender and Luberon Tour

Lunch at Les Petites Tables and a visit to the Eco Musée de L'Olivier in Volx (entrance is free if you have lunch there)

In the footsteps of the lavender pickers.