Roteiro sensorial em Provence

Our Lavender and Luberon tour has been picked up around the world. In Brazil we are working with two major agencies, and the press campaign has just started, so for our Brazilian readers click on the links below to find out more...and in Portuguese!

Roteiro sensorial em Provence

Biarritz Turismo e FVO Travel criam roteiro especial

Marseille 2013 - Getting Ready.

I am sure that now you will have heard that Marseille is the European Capital for Culture in 2013, and if you haven't you know now.

The Vieux Port (Old Port) of Marseille viewed from the Palais du Pharo.

As a professional in the tourism business this is an event that I have been waiting for with great impatience. Not only is it an exciting year for all things cultural, with a superb line-up of concerts, some outstanding, not to be missed, art exhibitions, the creation of new museums the star being the MuCem, a Museum of Civilizations From Europe and the Mediterranean who's audacious architecture alongside the Fort St Jean is to be found at the entrance of the Vieux Port and the Commercial ports becoming the first building to be seen by those arriving from the sea, and thus becomes a symbol of Marseille and its profound historical and cultural attachments with the Mediterranean. 

The MuCem (Museum of Civilizations From Europe and the Mediterranean) with the Fort St Jean to the right and the Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Marseille in the background.   

Being the Cultural Capital of the Europe is also an opportunity for Marseille to rid itself, or at least lessen the image it has as a dangerous city, where poverty and crime are sadly the only vision that many people have retained. Well here's is the big revelation. There is poverty and crime in Marseille, but no more than Paris, London, New York, Bangkok etc. etc. So here is tip that will be invaluable on your next visit. Stick to the centre and avoid the dangerous bits. They are easily recognisable as lacking in museums, restaurants and with few smiling people sitting in side walk cafés. If you live in a big city you'll have no problem spotting them! 

Notre Dame de La Garde overlooking the city .

Marseille has always been a fascinating city to visit, but sadly has been avoided due to the continuous stream of bad press it receives. Now it has a chance to redeem itself, helped by a multi-million Euro facelift. Visitors to the South of France who don't spend at least one day in Marseille will be missing out. I have put up some information on the Unique Provence website, and can provide bilingual guides should you require them. 

This is going to be an exciting year for Marseille and all those who come to visit and as the year goes on  I will be visiting as many of the exhibitions, concerts and events as possible and I will put up posts for each. 

Don't hesitate to contact me or leave a comment. 

All photos by me...

Photo of the Day - Forcalquier and the Alps...

People tend to associate Provence with the Mediterranean, Lavender fields, Hilltop villages and the Luberon Valley but rarely would one associate the Alps. The Northernmost department of Provence is called Les Alpes de Haute Provence. It is probably the most authentic part of Provence in my mind and abounds in hidden secrets which I take enormous pleasure in revealing to my clients. It's also where I live and every day when I drive home from my office I have the privilege of the view of the Alps bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. The Southern Alps are just next door and even though they are not strictly speaking Provence they fall within its administrative jurisdiction. There are several ski resorts which benefit from the sunshine of Provence whilst often boasting an excellent snow coverage especially towards the end of the season.
Here is a photo taken during an afternoon walk, you can see the Citadel of Forcalquier as well as the unmistakable mountain slopes in the background. The cameras zoom makes the mountains seem even closer than they really are and the effect is quite dramatic. There was no high point to get a clear shot so the tree branches became an inherent part of the image as well.

Forcalquier and the Alps 

Your Provence Travel Questions Answered.

Do you know where this is? Answer in the comments if you think you have the answer.  

Whilst browsing through my blog's statistics I always take a look at some of the queries used by search engines that people use to find me. These vary from people looking for a Nougat making machine to others searching for breeding stock of Provençal goats or Camargue horses, but today I noticed someone who was looking for the time it would take to drive from Gargas to the Valensole plateau. I don't think that the answer to that question can be found here, but I can answer it (about 1h20). If they are going to Valensole to admire the lavender fields I would tell them to go to the Plateau d'Albion instead which is closer (30-40 minutes) and in my mind, more spectacular.

Lavender field on the plateau d'Albion, complete with weeds which give it an altogether  more rustic charm don't you think?

All this to say to visitors to this blog, if you came here looking for simple answers to your Provençal travel questions and you can't find them, just click on the contact button to the right and ask me directly! Its free and chances are I have the answer you are looking for.

Unless you are looking for a stud goat...

                                         ...and even then I may be able to help.

Have a very Luxury Christmas in Provence

If you are going to be in France this year’s Christmas holidays and are looking for somewhere to stay, do or see then come to Provence and enjoy a bit of pampering, a perfect way to face the start of 2013. Here is a list of a few of the luxury breaks and ideas from some of the leading luxury hotels of the region. The list is not exclusive and as I receive more information from hotels I will add them on.

Since this is not a list ordered according to any specific criteria I have listed the Hotels by their town names alphabetically.

La Mirande – Avignon

La Mirande is literally across the road from the monumental Papal Palace in the centre of Avignon. Over the Christmas and New Year period they have several offers.

The first is a pre-Christmas offer with a festive market with Artisans, animations for Children, tasting of Christmas fare by the hotel’s chef, wine tasting, mulled wine, waffles all in and around the hotel. All this and One night in a Large Deluxe Double room, a buffet breakfast. The afternoon Christmas “goûter” served in the patio of La Mirande and the Christmas present from La Mirande made by one of the artisans at the artisan’s market.

From the 14^th to the 16^th December Prices from 305€ for two

And for Christmas day a 7 course Christmas dinner, one night with buffet breakfast included from 547€ for two.

L’Abbaye de La Celle – La Celle en Provence

The first of two of Alain Ducasse’s Inns on our list, in the heart of La Provence Verte, here is a Christmas offer for Gourmets.

3 nights in a superior room (upgrades possible according to availability. All breakfasts. Cocktails on your arrival. Christmas gifts and a personalised welcome in room. A Gourmet dinner on Christmas Eve with two starters, two main courses cheese and dessert.   A Gourmet lunch on Christmas Day with two starters, two main courses cheese and dessert.

Prices from 1 195€ for two.

Hotel Crillon le Brave – Crillon le Brave

Perched at the top of the hilltop village of the same name here is one of the most romantic settings in Provence to spend a gourmet Christmas. Over Christmas there will be cooking classes, a concert on the 23^rd and their special Christmas gourmet offer.

One night including breakfast and either Christmas Eve dinner or Christmas lunch for two.

Prices from 299€ for two.

La Bastide de Gordes – Gordes

With an access to the stunning hilltop town of Gordes enjoy the New Year with gourmet delights and the Luxury Spa.

3 nights in a double room.  3 breakfasts.  New Year’s Eve Gourmet Dinner.  1 Dinner (Bastide Menu)

Access to the Open Spa: Chromatic pool, Jacuzzi, hammam and fitness room.

From 705,50€ per person

Le Couvent des Minimes – Mane en Provence

Nestled in La Haute Provence discover « another » Provence based at Le Couvent des Minimes

1 night in a double room. A selection of Christmas treats in your room. Buffet breakfast. A choice of either Dinner on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day lunch both at the Le Clôitre gourmet restaurant. Prices start at 240€ per person

La Bastide de Moustiers - Moustiers Ste Marie

The other Alain Ducasse Inn on our list, the setting of this hotel near the village of Moustiers Ste Marie is perfect for Christmas. The offer is nearly identical to that of L’Abbaye de La Celle.

3 nights in a superior room (upgrades possible according to availability. All breakfasts. Cocktails on your arrival. Christmas gifts and a personalised welcome in room. A Gourmet dinner on Christmas Eve with two starters, two main courses cheese and dessert.   A Gourmet lunch on Christmas Day with two starters, two main courses cheese and dessert.

Prices from 1 235€ for two.

If you would like more information on Christmas and New year offers contact us using the link on the right.

Autumn Colours of the Luberon

Maybe this is one of those things we say every year, like I can’t remember September rain like this or this is the hottest month of July when every year the seasons pass and resemble each other, but this year I have never seen so much autumn colour in Provence! We will see if this is just a memory problem next year as I have taken loads of photos and so comparative documentation will be available…

Here are a few of those photos and I am sure you will agree the colours are astounding. I have not tweaked or enhanced any of the pictures they are as the camera saw them. For the techies out there I am using a Nikon D5100 with an AF-S NIKKOR 55-200mm 1:4-5.6G ED and an 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G both very standard lenses so although the camera is a goodun here is proof that it’s the subject that really counts.

This post follows the one by Ginger and Nutmeg on Fall Colours in Provence and it was seeing theirs that I was inspired to show you mine. (No double entendres intended). However I do apologise to them for my somewhat similar title.

So here we go.

Les Couleurs d’Automne du Luberon

Autumn Colours of the Luberon 

Plane tree in Lourmarin

As you drive out of Lourmarin towards Bonnieux on your left is a beautiful house with this magnificent plane tree next to it. Perfectly proportioned it reminds me of a huge burning torch.

The village of Bonnieux and the Cherry Orchards

I posted a similar picture to this one on Twitter. The Cherry orchards provide a warmth to an otherwise cold atmosphere, I was a veritable danger in my car, slamming on the brakes every time a scene like this one appeared around a corner!

The Village of Lacoste and more Cherry orchards

Lacoste faces Bonnieux and for this shot I had to come back when the light was in the right place. Once again the Cherry Orchards steal the show.

The Yellow Tree

I could imagine this tree being the subject of a painting. The fallen yellow leaves contributed so much light that this tree stood out from all the others with their redder ones.

Vines near Menerbes

Yesterday morning I had a rendez-vous at the Domaine de La Citadelle vineyard for a wine tasting and visit including the extraordinary Museum of the Corkscrew which houses a huge collection of corkscrews from around the world and throughout the ages. As I returned to my car the sun did its thing and provided this rather evocative lighting on the rows of vines.

Oppède le Vieux

I wanted to get a few photos of Oppède le Vieux but it was completely in the shade. This picture however still works because the variety of colours bring it to life. You can see the sun shining in the valley behind!

The village of Lioux

If you drive from Gordes to Apt via the village of Murs you will be faced with this splendid tableau with the village of Lioux and the incredible cliff that towers over it.

Cabanon Pointu

Around the town of Forcalquier and in particular around Mane en Provence you can find these dry stone huts known as Cabanon Pointus (literally pointed huts) in Haute Provence and Bories further South, in particular around Gordes. Having flown over the region many hundreds of times in Hot Air Balloons I have spotted many Cabanons hidden in the woods, and this is one of the many!

And there you have it! A few of my favourite shots showing this years Autumn colours and to follow a few more but without commentary only a caption, just for "le plaisir des yeux" (the pleasure of the eyes).

Vines near Gordes

More Cherry Orchards

The Village of Menerbes

Vineyard near Gargas

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The Montagne de Lure - A sunset story

Autumn is one of those times of year when my camera never leaves my side. In the same way spring heralds the year to come with wild flowers, blossoming fruit trees and contrasting skies, autumn is the end, but nature doesn’t just fizzle out to nothing it goes into hibernation with a BANG! Everywhere you look it seems as though the trees are vying with each other, all the hues of red, brown and orange in a spectacular display that bring out the poet it all of us!

The first lines of Ode to Autumn by Keats, that I was forced to learn at school much to my dislike at the time, repeat themselves in mind “Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness!

                                                                    Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun…”

Thank you Mr. English Teacher (I can’t remember his name, but he was my English teacher at UWC in Singapore)

So yesterday afternoon I decided to go for a drive up to the summit of the Montagne de Lure, which is a 20 minute drive from my house. I wanted to photograph the forests on the way up and then see if I could catch the sunset. As I drove I was worried about arriving too late for the sunset so I skipped the forest bit and went straight to the top. I walked the last bit to the ridge which follows the summit, paused and then said WOW like I do every single time I get up there.

The Montagne de Lure viewed from the valley below, St Etienne side.

The Montagne de Lure is 1826 meters high, and is part of the same massif as the Mont Ventoux. Like the Ventoux it is mainly just loose shingle on the top, but being slightly lower, Lure has a bit more vegetation. The drive to the summit starts in St Etienne des Orgues and is 18kms. Halfway up you can stop of at the Chapel of Notre Dame de Lure built in 1166, the only person who lives there now is a hermit who my children call Jack Sparrow as he has his beard done in gray dreadlocks! I will add a photo later… The Montagne de Lure was a stage in the 2009 Paris-Nice cycle race and I was at the summit to witness Alberto Contador win with a time of 34 min 20 s and not a bead of sweat! The race will return to the mountain next year and I will be there again to see the arrival.

Once you approach the summit, you will come to a collection of ugly looking buildings, one is the restaurant/bar where you can have a bite to eat in season, though if you are in a hurry take a picnic lunch with you. In the winter this is as far as you can go if the snow has fallen in sufficient quantities and the two ski lifts are operational, don’t expect huge alpine runs here, but for taking the kids on a Sunday afternoon it’s perfect.

If there is no snow, as was the case yesterday, you can carry on to the top. I like to stop once you come out of the last of the trees in an area marked by a commemorative stone. From here you can walk up to the top and if you have small children, hang on to them, and only release them once you reach the ridge before the vertiginous descent of over 1000 meters down in to the Jabron Valley  on the other side. 

The summit of the Mountain (with a few patches of snow)

When you get here this is where you will say WOW, in fact usually people take a step back and use a slightly more colourful expression as you have before you one of the most spectacular views available in Provence.

The view north from the ridge

The same view with a bit of zoom

View to the west and the familiar silhouette of the Mont Ventoux 

So back to my Lure experience yesterday. As I walked to the top I spotted something moving to my right. Now I have already seen Chamois down the Jabron side, so I supposed that this is what it was and gently walked up to see. There, not more than 50 meters away was a Chamois, munching on the limited vegetation growing between the lumps of rock, it looked up in my direction (I was flat on my belly madly clicking away with my camera) and carried on its evening meal. 

The Chamois looking in my direction...

Later it walked to an outcrop, posed for me, and then, two Mirage Jets very low flying back to their base, close enough for me to smell the burnt kerosene vapours, flew over scaring the hell out of my furry companion.

The Chamois posing

The Noise

So that was my nature moment buggered up…

But now something else was happening, as I walked along the ridge I saw two cars park near mine. The two couples walked up towards the summit, pulled out blankets and laid down facing the sun, and waited.

By this time the light was that wonderful rich golden orange colour that lasts only a short while and usually I don’t have my camera handy, but this time I did, and I got a few nice shots.

Then I too faced the sun, and witnessed a moment that happens every day and no matter how often I see it its magic will never wear off. It has to be said that the sunset on the top of the Montagne de Lure is particularly stunning and in this case I think the pictures do all the talking themselves…  

Going

Going

Gone

The Montagne de Lure is spectacular in all seasons and a perfect place to escape the heat of summer. If you would like to know more or would like to include it in a bespoke itinerary of Provence, contact me using the link on the right.